Sunday, 18 March 2018

Dino Alves - ModaLisboa N.50

THE OTHER TRUTH - FW 2018/19 Collection

Dino Alves had the honor to close the 50th edition of ModaLisboa. The conceptual designer likes to play with the codes of the runway presentation and strives to tell a story with his collections. This time the actuall end of the schedule started literally with dismantling during Dino Alves show, aiming to show the beauty in imprefection. Before the models came out, the cleaning team appeared on the catwalk with machines and garbage cans, the floor got ripped, the pipe and drape went down and the backdrop was beinng taken off. The clothes that where presented, where far from unperfect, in fact Dino proposed a very playful and fresh collection.

'One of the main goals of the human being today is to be observed at every moment and to be seen as a perfect being, beautifil, successful, with a dream life and almost always sexy. 

Since imprefection is a form of freedom, why would the individual just want to be perfect, submitting himself to a kind of dictatorship of perfection, thus influencing others so many times through their authenticity, individuality and beauty. Have they lost themselves too?!
The world has changed, we all know. However, there is one question that we should preserve and maintain: the truth, which at this time seems to be just one other. The other truth!'

Saturday, 17 March 2018

Van Eyck Open Studios 2018

Vera Gulikers
The Van Eyck Academy Open Days took place from 8th till 10th of March. All the participating artists, designers, architects, curators and writers displayed their artistic research and collaborative projects resulting from their residency at the Van Eyck.
The Open Studios 2018 showed a variety and high quality of projects resulting in a multidisciplinary exhibition with videos, performances, paintings and installation. Wandering through the studios and Van Eyck labs provided an inspiring glimpse of many promising creatives of the future.
The central Open Studios exhibition is curated by participants Bernke Klein Zandvoort and Rodrigo Red Sandoval.

Here are some of my highlights.

Ricardo Andrez - ModaLisboa N.50

Ricardo Andrez FW 2018/19

The TFS's ( TrustFundKids)
"The legacy of streetwear is modern; it was born in the skate, surf and hiphip in the 80s and 90s.
It was an insignia of honor and underground, symbolizing a movement outside the fashion industry.
Capturring and analyzing the current stereotype, the symbol of progress makes the streetwear the mainstream, saturated with teenagers with ridiculous amounts of money to spend.  Many of them understand little what supports this inheritance of brands and only what their logos represent socially."

Kolovrat - ModaLisboa N.50

KOLOVRAT Fall/Winter 18/19 'SHAPE SHIFT'

"I will tell you a story.
Unexpected and unfitting.
As you feel nostalgic.
I will reset your reality.
I will shape your mood.
I’ll tell you a story as if it were yours"

AWAYTOMARS - ModaLisboa N.50 FW2018/19

Nature vs. Sci-fi
Ever since the launch of the project, AWAYTOMARS has sparked with fresh presentations.
In addition to the main venue of Pavilhão Carlos Lopes several shows took part at the Estufa Fria tropical garden. This venue proved to be the perfect match for the FW 2018/19 collection by AWAYTOMARS. Inspired by the outer space, the futuristic look and feel blended beautifully with the tropical environment of the garden.  For their show they collaborated with Melissa on sandals and clogs.

AWAYTOMARS is the world’s first 100% user-created fashion brand. Its business model is based on sharing economy principles and aims to open up the fashion industry to all. Founded in 2015, the company outsources the initial stages of the creative process to the general public, allowing them to concentrate solely on the generation of interesting and innovative ideas. AWAYTOMARS receives sketches and ideas online from members of the public and iterates them with the help of its online community to create eye-catching, collaborative fashion. Next, AWAYTOMARS works with technical experts to create physical prototypes, organizes a crowdfunding campaign for each product, oversees the entire production process and finally hosts the finished item on its sales portal.

All images by brankopopovicblog 

Thursday, 15 March 2018

Aleksandar Protic - ModaLisboa N.50

Aleksandar Protic presented an all black collection inspired by the personality of the actress Theda Bara - The Vamp, a femme-fatale and one of the first sex symbols of the silent film.
The collection exists out of natural materials like wool, cotton and silk and contains well tailored, sophisticated and timeless clothing. Aleksandar stays true to his aesthetics and really knows how to cut and create beautiful dresses.

Luís Carvalho - ModaLisboa N.50

Luís Carvalho - Under Your Skin FW 2018

For the fall/winter 2018 collection Luís Carvalho got inspired by the big cities' buildings where we find disguised textures and forms of animal skin. Proposing straight and oversized shapes the silhouette is inspired by the 60ies. Mixing vinyl jacquard, synthetic skin and tule the materials and graphics refer to 60ies as well.

Olga Noronha - ModaLisboa N.50

Olga Noronha presented the 'Uncanny' collection inspired by Sigmund Freud 'The Uncanny" 1919. p. 152. An intellectual uncertainty resultant from "effecting the distiction between imagination and reality."

all images by brankopopovicblog

Valentim Quaresma - ModaLisboa N.50 FW 2018

Inspired by a poem by Gilda Nunes Barata, the collection 'Roots' refers to the unconscious, to the memory without nostalgia, the persistence of the dream and the notion of the future.

Wednesday, 14 March 2018

Gonçalo Peixoto - ModaLisboa N.50 FW 2018

New promising name on the ModaLisboa schedule is Gonçalo Peixoto, currently graduating in ESAD, Escola Superior de Artes e Design, in Porto.

Tuesday, 13 March 2018

Sangue Novo - ModaLisboa FW 2018

The 50th edition of ModaLisboa - Lisboa Fashion Week fashion show schedule kicked off with emering designers. Still, after 25 years ModaLisboa continues their support for new talent through Sangue Novo (New Blood) platform. 8 designers where selected to show their collection, among them Federico Cina,  the winner of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017 talent award.

On behalf of FASHIONCLAH, I had the pleasure to meet all the designers and choose one as winner of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2018.
Rita Sá has been awarded with the price. She will join the very talented Filipe Augusto, the winner of October 2017 edition. Both designers will take part at the 10th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht.

Rita Sá presented her playful and all indigo blue collection that is based on the motto “If you have a glass ceiling, don´t throw rocks in the air”. “Telhados de Vidro” describes the game played by those who desperately try to be something they are not; masked hypocrites who feel the need of ostentation in a “make-believe” world. Attacking others for problems that they also have, the individuals who make the collection choose to believe that it is better to be a false somebody than a real nobody.
The collection show build on a grading concept from the first to the last look. The blue colour in the collection references the use of plastic bags, creating the idea of something that is disposable.

Rita Sá
Filipe Augusto impressed with his second collection 'Harvests' inspired by the harvested memories, past and present, based on real characters and their strenuous and joyful journey through the traversed Douro.

Inês Nunes do Valle expressed the current state of fashion with a collection 'I'm in the wrong joke'. She has been awarded the The Feeting Room concept store award.

Federico Protto
is currently based in Hungary, educated in Vienna but his origins are in Uruguay. The collection’s main inspiration is the journey to his birthplace Montevideo, making him This question the idea of origin and destination. His journeys are reflected in his eclectic collection that contains traditional, historical and ethnological elements of his birthplace. Referencing the cowhide as a main material and the Gaucho - an archetype of a South American persona - in a figurative and also abstract manner.
'I see my garments more as energetic artefacts, the person wearing them as gender fluid and utopian shaman of the digital times.

Furthermore the show featured Opiar and N'a Pas de Quoi, both brands formed by two designers. Opiar presented 'Fake it until you make it' mixing romantic and sport elements that are reflecting the designers' characteristics. N'a Pas de Quoi where inspired by Opheila and Pre-Raphaelite. Designer Isidro Paiva's collection 'Beauty of Misfit' is a playfull adaption of clothing elements we know and subtle details that you can discover up close.

All images by brankopopovicblog

Wednesday, 7 March 2018

A matter of taste

Comme des Garçons Fall Winter 2018

For the fall winter 2018, Rei Kawakubo was inspired by the idea of “camp”, referring to the aesthetic sensibility that lies inbetween bad taste and irony. The question is what is good taste?
How far does something have to go before it’s perceived as camp? 
What was once considered to be in good taste - bouffants, blue hair, circle skirts and marabou-adorned mules — now is considered as camp. And what once was read as camp such as sneakers with your suit is now seen as fashionable.

This is a wonderful example how fashion can question perception, aesthetics and taste. More and more the context seems to matter; when is fashion considerd in fashion rather than what is fashion.

Diane Vreeland would say:
“A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste—it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.” 

Thom Browne Fall Winter 2018

“Vigée Le Brun painting a vision of what she wanted to be in the 21st century.”
Set as an artist studio, the collection is inspired by Vigée Le Brun Marie Antoinette’s official portraitist who became famous in the society of male-dominated milieu.

FASHIONCLASH Festival 2018 x Das Leben am Haverkamp

Fashion My Religion! Campaign project in cooperation with Das Leben am Haverkamp 

FASHIONCLASH presents Fashion My Religion! (FMR), the 10th edition of the international & interdisciplinary fashion festival in Maastricht. During this three-day festival over more than 100 emerging designers and (performing)artists from all over the world get the opportunity to show their work to a diverse, international audience. The multidisciplinary program contains fashion shows/presentations, exhibitions, installations, awards, fashion theatre and dance performances.

The overarching theme of the festival is “Fashion My Religion!” (read ‘fashion’ as a verb). The campaign image is developed in collaboration with the Dutch fashion collective Das Leben am Haverkamp, ​​consisting of Christa van der Meer, Dewi Bekker, Anouk van Klaveren and Gino Anthonisse. Following the theme for this edition ‘Fashion My Religion’ they made cakes from the favorite garments of, among others, FCF-founders Nawie Kuiper, Branko Popovic and Laurens Hamacher and of themselves.

Campaign photographer is Lonneke van der Palen and graphic designer Ivo Straetmans (Studio Noto).

As a collective, we see less and less relevance in making more clothes. As a result, our previous projects were all about exploring an alternative role for ourselves as fashion designers. With this project we want to celebrate your favorite clothing pieces, instead of making new ones. For us (like religion, sport and art) fashion is a way of giving meaning, a social context, something to look forward to, creation and identity. Unfortunately, the value people attach to clothing is subjected to inflation because increasingly more is becoming available for less.
That is why we present a ‘new religion’(with a wink) that can replace fashion: baking cakes in the form of clothing. The hobby-like character, the personal commitment and the disarming image of cake baking in a fashion context, we find an exciting contrast with the elitist image that fashion can have.’

Sunday, 4 March 2018

A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes

A Queen Within Gucci Viktor and Rolf photo Josh Brasted courtesy of MUSEEA
NOMA's first fashion exhibition showcasing rare pieces from one of the world’s largest private collections of Alexander McQueen fashion, the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) presents A Queen Within - Adorned Archetypes, on view from February 21 through May 28, 2018.

A Queen Within – Adorned Archetypes is an exhibition developed by Barrett Barrera Projects and MUSEEA.

More: info
A Queen Within Iris van Herpen photo Josh Brasted courtesy of MUSEEA


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